Hubert Keller is one of our favorite chefs, and Fleur de Lys is one of our favorite restaurants. We decided to try the one in San Francisco the year before after seeing Chef Keller compete on Top Chef Masters. The food that we had there was amazing, so we just had to try the one in Las Vegas.
The only order of business for the waiter was to find out who was having the wine pairing, and who was having something else to drink. It turned out that all of the men at the table took the wine pairing, and the women each had their own drinks.
As they were pouring the first wine, a sparkling Brut Rosé from Gruet in New Mexico, they began pouring into all of the cups, “just so that everybody had something to toast with”. That was OK by me. This was paired with the gift from the chef, a crab and avocado island in a watermelon soup. The soup had such an intense watermelon flavor that it went perfectly with the crab and avocado.
Our next course was the ahi tuna tartare, with a shaved fennel slaw and ginger ponzu, which is a Japanese citrus sauce. At the beginning of the meal, we had mentioned that my entire family, along with Jennifer, does not eat anything raw. So they were brought a little salad with two medallions of lobster. Unfortunately, we forgot to mention that Jennifer also does not like lobster much. I know, I know, and I am going to marry this girl! Anyways, halfway through the course, she decided to try the tartare. And she liked it. So, we traded halfway through and now she might not be quite as against raw tuna as she was.
The wine that was paired with the salad course was a 2008 Hirsch Heiligenstein Gruner Veltleiner. The yellow apple flavor nicely complemented the shaved fennel slaw, as well as the vinaigrette.
Our next course was the soup course. And to be quite honest, with was a course that I don’t think that I will ever forget. The servers came large bowls and placed them right in front of us. In each bowl was a smear of red onion puree and a bite of braised duck wrapped in a crepe, sitting on a slice of black truffle. This looked good, but it didn’t look like much of a course. Once all the plates had been placed, two more servers came forward, each carrying a silver pitcher of soup. Finally, the light went off for me.
As I mentioned, it was one of the best soups, or, for that matter, best anythings, that I have ever tasted. It was a truffle-onion soup that was so velvety smooth, and the flavors melded so perfectly, it was heaven. Even the Chardonnay that was paired with it was nice, the Talbott vineyards Logan Chardonnay from Monterrey Valley. To be honest, I remember everything pairing well, but I was so amazed with the soup that I don’t really remember the wine.
Now, on to the seafood course. This was a braised yellowtail tuna in a ginger aromatic sauce with pickled shiitake mushrooms and a grilled cipollini onion, paired with a 2008 Dr. Thanisch Kabinett Riesling from the Mosel region of Germany. At this point, I am going to stop saying how well the food and wine went together, as you are probably getting tired of hearing it. We’ll just go with the assumption that it does, unless otherwise specified, which it won’t be for the rest of the meal.
Anyways, the grilled cipollini was absolutely delicious with the tuna and mushrooms, and I don’t often like mushrooms that much. This time, I didn’t have a problem with either the texture (they weren’t slimy, which is good) or the flavor (something that tastes like earth is not often at the top of my list). But in this case, they were great.
At this point, our waiter Javier mentioned to us that Chef Keller would be in the restaurant tonight, however he would be having a quiet dinner with his wife. He also mentioned which table they would be dining at.
Now, back to the food. We had the Braised Veal and Yukon Gold Potato Ravioli. Now, this was not your typical ravioli. This ravioli was made from the potato itself. Imagine two slices of potato cooked, stuffed with veal, sunchokes, and English peas, finally sealed together in a ravioli form. Amazing. This dish was paired with a 2006 Pinot Noir by Michel Picard from Givry, France.
The final savory course was a Rack of Colorado Lamb with caramelized onions, pancetta, grilled romaine and a Harissa-Olive Sauce. The wine was a 2005 Granache / Syrah blend by Domaine de la Janasse, Terre d’Argile, Cotes Du Rhone Villages 2005. And now, I am out of good ways to talk about yummy food.
When we looked downstairs at the restaurant, to the place Javier mentioned that Chef Keller would be sitting, there he was. In person. We had seen him many times on tv (Top chef, Top Chef Masters, and Secrets of a Chef, on PBS), but this was the first time in person. He was just there, sitting down to dinner with his wife, who was the designer of the Las Vegas restaurant, and one other person.
Our first dessert course was a coconut tapioca soup with a passion fruit sorbet and a plantain cake, with strawberry and kiwi. This was my sister’s favorite dish, as she is totally into passion fruit.
Finally, there was a huge chocolate soufflé. They were huge. Of course, when it got tableside, the servers broke open the top and poured in a chocolate ganache. On the side was a scoop of Mocha Ice Cream. Dessert came with a 2005 Granache by M Chapoutier from the Banyuls region of France. I don’t think that anybody was able to finish the entire soufflé.
We had made it through the entire meal. It was amazing. But wait, there was more. As we were preparing to go, they brought two trays of about 20 madelines, along with a chocolate dipping sauce. They were definitely a hit with the table.
The tour of the kitchen was quite amazing, as well. Of course it was spotless and fairly spacious for a professional kitchen with anywhere from 10 – 14 cooks per day. The interesting thing was to find that all of the meat was cooked sous vide, and then finished with a quick sear to provide a bit of texture. It was the first time that I had seen an immersion circulator in use.
As we returned to our table, we each found an autographed copy of Hubert Keller’s book, “Burger Bar”. The women at the table also had a rose that is part of the wall decoration of the restaurant.
Dinner was over, the kitchen was toured, the bill was paid, and it was time to go. We stopped to say goodbye to our waiter, while Jennifer’s mom went ahead, and when we looked up, Chef Keller was talking to her. We went over, said hi, made some small-talk and told him about how amazing our dinner was. Not wanting to take up too much of his time, we thanked him and continued on our way.
This was definitely a dinner not to be forgotten.
